On the top of my list for the longest time (and on the top of everyone’s list I am sure) has been hiking my way to Machu Picchu via the Salkantay Trek, the lost Incan city. As soon as travel started to open back up in 2021, we found ourselves some affordable flights to Peru and decided to look into the hiking trek along the Salkantay, and wanted to share with you everything we learned from our research!
What This Guide Covers:
The Basic Outline
Know Before You Go
Breakdown of Daily Hiking
What To Know About Machu Picchu
Packing List of What To Bring
SEE MORE // THE BEST TRAVEL CREDIT CARDS TO MAXIMIZE YOUR POINTS
The Basics About the Salkantay Trek
The Salkantay Trek has long been known as a less-busy alternative to the famous Inca Trail, the original trail created by the Incan people to Machu Picchu. With the limited number of permits available for the Incan Trail, and with how hard it is to snag one of those spots, this is an incredible alternative. It’s a beautiful 4 to 5 day pass through the Salkantay Mountains in the Andes Range, about 40 to 60 miles depending on which trek you choose to take!
The Key Pieces to Know:
- Time Needed: Two options are available, a 4D 3N short trek (what we did) or a 5D 4N long trek
- Distance Covered: The shorter 4D trek is 37 miles total vs the 5D trek is 44 miles total
- Difficulty: Absolutely difficult, even our 25 year old in shape selves DEEPLY struggled
- Altitude: Reaches up to 4.6k meters or 15,000 feet! It’s a brutal altitude
- Prices: We opted for a $290 trek with AmericanInca, but prices can go up to $600
- What’s Included: Most tour company have all inclusive treks! Which means your sleeping arrangements, meals, and all transportation is included. Does not include alcoholic drinks or tips!
For the purposes of this guide, we’re going to break out our four-day trek with American Inca Trail! I highly highly recommend them as a company, and cannot say enough incredible things. They absolutely blew us away with having the best food, great accommodations, and an incredible guide who has lived his whole life in the region and never left our side.
Know Before You Go // Prepping for the Trek
Pick Up is in Cusco and you will need to arrive AT LEAST TWO DAYS before your trek. Not required, but you’re 100% going to appreciate the time to adjust to the altitude. Plus the city is beautiful, and we shared our favorite spots on our One Week in Peru guide to help you out!
Getting to Cusco when they tell you to get to the airport 2 hours early, listen. We almost missed our flight from Lima to Cusco because we tend to be arrive-late people. Do not make that mistake, as there aren’t THAT many flights!
Avoid eating fruits & veggies Before your trek, you should ensure you’re careful about what you’re eating. The middle of a mountain is the last place you want to have stomach issues. Trust me.
Don’t drink the water and don’t even brush your teeth with it! Stock up on water bottles and only use those.
You Get One Duffel Bag to carry your trek clothes with you. Pack wisely, and don’t bring what you don’t need. We have a full packing list at the bottom of this blog post!
Keep Your Backpack Light because the weight on your back is going to be one of the hardest parts. Heavy items in your duffel, and lightest must-haves go in your pack but that is IT.
HYDRATE because that’s the best way to handle a four day trek in that much altitude!!!!
Day One: Hiking The Salkantay Pass
Quick TLDR: You’re hiking about 8 hours and 14 miles total up a mountain and then back down. Wear layers as the top of the pass is ice cold, but you’ll be overheating. Pack about 2-3 liters of water and shoes that can handle ice and snow on the ground. Also, pack snacks!!!!
Before I type this up, please know that this is the hardest day and every following day will be easier. But this day just about killed me. You’re going to finish this trek feeling 1) on top of the world which you basically are at 15k feet and 2) like your entire body is going to give up on you. As long as you’re mentally prepared for this and aware YOU CAN DO IT then that’s part one.
Pick Up in Cusco
Your day begins with a bright and early 3AM-4AM wake-up call in Cusco! Your guide will pick you up on a bus and drive you 2-3 hours to the starting point. Relax, you’re going to be in for a WILD RIDE.
If You’re Doing the 5 Day Trek…
Your day begins before our 4-day trek people! You’re driven to Mollepata and will start off with breakfast before heading to your trailhead. You’ve got a full morning of hiking on varying terrain for 3-4 hours, followed by lunch, and then another couple hours for 8 miles total.
At the end of the day, you have an optional trek up to the below Lake Humantay, and let me tell you DO THIS HIKE IT’S BEAUTIFUL. I will also note it just about killed me because I get insane altitude sickness
Once you hit this point, everything about the 4 and 5-day hikes is the same. The only difference is the 4-day hikes drive you through this 8-mile portion!
Hiking Laguna Humantay
At the end of Day 1 for the 5-Day hikers and the start of Day 1 for the 4-Day hikers is the option to get to Lake Humantay.
It’s about a 5k trek each way, but the view from the top is simply one of the most amazing views you will ever see in your life.
The 4-Day Trek Day One (and 5-Day’s Day 2)
Your day will begin with the above hike to Laguna Humantay, and then you’ll start the main portion of the trek. Your morning will begin with a 2-3 hour trek straight up the mountain pass. This is going to be one of the hardest parts of the entire trip. We were exceptionally unlucky and it ended up snowing heavily during our walk up the mountain, but that’s apparently pretty rare! Your trek begins with light gravel hills and eventually turns into switchbacks up the main mountain.
They will offer you the option to ride a horse at the base, up to the lunch spot. If you had trouble with the altitude of the Laguna Humantay hike, take the horse because it only gets SIGNIFICANTLY HARDER. I was on the verge of passing out from altitude during the Laguna hike, and had to take a horse to the lunch spot in order to save my health!
Just an hour from the peak, you’ll stop for lunch and get a moment to warm up and relax! Appreciate that, because you still have another one-hour hike up to the Salkantay Pass. This is going to be the most brutal portion as you’re at the highest altitude of the entire trip, and it’s a pretty straight shot!
Once you’re at the peak, YAY YOU DID IT! You’ve survived the hardest portion of this entire trek! It’s all downhill from here!
You’ll now have about 3 hours of downhill hiking from the top of the Salkantay Pass to the base of the mountain where you’ll be setting up camp for the night. You’ll get to enjoy a delicious meal (again, cannot say how DELICIOUS the food made by our American Inca Trail cooks was) and then a campfire and drinks before heading to bed! You’ll be passed out early from how exhausting the trek was.
Pro Tip: Fill up a plastic water bottle with some boiling hot water and stick that in your sleeping bag to keep warm. It’s around 30 degree during the night and that water bottle is going to save you!
Day Two: Hiking Down the Jungle Pass
Quick TLDR: You’re hiking about 4 hours and 6-8 miles total downhill through the jungle. It’s humid but water, wear leggings and a rain jacket to protect from mosquitos. Pack about 1-2 liters of water and use hiking poles to go downhill.
Time for another hiking day! This day is entirely downhill, so while your knees are going to hate you I promise it’s better than that first day. You kick off the day with breakfast and then climb down the rest of the jungle trek called “Ceja de Selva” where you’ll see some incredible variety of tropical plants compared to your mountain trek. It’s about 6-7 miles long and then you get to stop for lunch in the jungle.
The Hot Springs of Santa Teresa
After your morning jungle hike, you can either opt to hike more of the trip OR you’ll take a drive about 2 hours to Santa Teresa for the night and spend some time enjoying the Santa Teresa hot springs.
We absolutely loved the Hot Springs! This is not entirely your choice and your guide has some say over which you do. But if you can, we totally would go for the hot springs again!
After lunch, you have two options: hiking more OR taking a car to the Hot Springs. We totally think the hot springs are the way to go! After that, you’ll enjoy a delicious dinner at your next campsite and more time by the fire. We loved that this campsite actually allowed us to meet hikers from other groups too!
Day Three: Hiking the Train Tracks to Aguas Calientes
Quick TLDR: You’re hiking about 2-3 hours and 6-8 miles total on flat ground. It’s warm and humid but mosquitos are aggressive so wear a rain jacket against them. It’s an easy day, so relax!
The easiest hiking day of the whole trip! Your day kicks off with an option to go on the Ziplines over the Andean mountains. This costs about $25 per person, and I will say while it was fun it really was a mid-tear zipline compared to some I have been on in Hawaii and in Mexico. So if you’re meh about it, then instead you can visit a coffee bean field or just relax at the campsite!
After the ziplines, you’ll take a car for about 30 minutes to Hydroelectric where you’ll stop for lunch before you start your 8-mile hike along the train tracks to get to Aguas Calientes. This is a very easy hiking day as the terrain is flat the entire way through.
Once you arrive in Aguas Calientes, you’ll have time to relax at your hotel/hostel before you get dinner with your hiking group! We visited a couple of bars and our favorite was Supertramp on their rooftop bar! The best cocktails, prices, and games there.
Day Four: Machu Picchu!
Quick TLDR: You can take the bus for minimal hiking or take the stairs. Shorts are fine, you’ll sweat a ton on the stairs.
GOOD MORNING! Get ready for a 4AM wake up call as you begin your trip to Machu Picchu. You have two options to get to the top of Machu Picchu.
Option One: Taking the Stairs from the base of Aguas Calientas. We thought this would be so much hardest than it was! It takes about 1 hour of climbing up the stairs to the entrance of Machu Picchu and is free. It truly was worth it, and was an easy climb compared to that first day of the trek!
Option Two: Taking the Bus from the base of Aguas Calientas which is $12 per person, each way. We opted to hike and bus down, and have no regrets about that move (someone in our group had a hurt knee, so climbing down stairs was a no).
Once at Machu Picchu, you’ll be given a tour by either your trek guide (our American Inca trek guide was certified so he could be the one to show us around) or by a Machu Picchu guide if your trek guide is not certified. Walking through the Incan ruin takes about 2 hours, and is just truly stunning.
From there, you have the option to hike to the top of Huaynapicchu Mountain (Hard) or Machu Picchu Mountain (Very Hard) which are both another hour of straight stairs and significantly more difficult than the main stair climb. The tall peak behind Machu Picchu village in this photo is Huaynapicchu!
Plus, they’re not for the faint of heart as they’re right over a cliff! You do need to pay extra for these (worth it though) and they are currently closed until Fall 2021 due to COVID.
Getting Back to Cusco
It’s important to ensure that your trek includes your train ticket back to Cusco (ours did) and if not you will need to purchase your train ticket home. I would absolutely recommend doing this in advance and cost is about $90 one way, but the line to purchase was QUITE long.
Our train ride took about 1.5 hours and dropped us off in Ollantaytambo, and then a car picked us up and drove us all the way back to our hotel in Cusco!
What to Pack on Your Salkantay Trek // Machu Picchu Trek
All are items I myself packed AND used during the trip! Also this does include affiliate links, but these are all products I own.
What You’ll Wear on the Salkantay Trek
- Warm Hat // You really only need during the first day if you expect colder temperatures! Either a hat or a headband for your ears is good
- Gloves // Nothing fancy needed, just cheap gloves from Target will do the trick. Anything to keep your fingers warm on Day 1 and at night!
- Sun Hat or Sunglasses // Days 2-5 are going to be ones where you want to protect your scalp from sunburns with just a regular ‘ole cap
- Rain Jacket // You’re in the mountains and in the forest so you absolutely can expect rain! Get a GOOD raincoat, waterproof not just water-resistant or you’ll end up extremely wet and never able to dry off
- Warm Jacket // You DO NOT need a ski level jacket, but you DO need a warm jacket for the cold mornings and colder nights. I would say sweatshirt level thickness is gonna do the trick!
- Layers of Shirts // I packed 2 tank tops and one long sleeve! I basically rotated these throughout the four days. They smelled like death by the end, but I wanted to save my space for other items! Layer it was!
- Underwear // Is this obvious? Yes. But HEAR ME when I say pack one per day. You won’t get to shower, and changing into clean underwear is going to be the closest thing you can get to clean!
- Thick Water Resistant Leggings // If you’re a gal reading this, I did my entire trek in leggings. I packed two pairs and wore those throughout the trip. If you don’t want to purchase a new pair of hiking pants, then leggings truly are fine. My ONE NOTE is to make sure they’re thick so if they snag on something or you slip and fall, they won’t rip! These Amazon ones are my FAVORITE pair I own and I wore them on the trek!
- OR Light Hiking Pants // These pants on Amazon are a great option, but my favorites are the Outdoor Voices pants! They’re heaven since you can feel less constricted but also protect your legs from the sun and mosquito bites.
- OR Shorts (Optional) // I’m the only person in our group who opted for shorts on the last day! I just knew I was going to swear insane amounts hiking the 2k stairs to Machu Picchu and it was a hot day, and I had no regrets. But honestly, shorts are not super needed and you WILL get bit up.omens
- Hiking Socks // PACK COMPRESSION SOCKS. Oh my god your feet and ankles are going to swell from the hiking, and these are heaven. They also protect you from those blisters. Trust me. Do it.
- Hiking Boots // If you’re thinking of doing this trek in regular sneakers, just mentally prep for pain. You’re going through a lot of terrain and a lot of rocks so you REALLY should bring hiking boots for you. Get something WATERPROOF, something BREATHABLE. These boots are honestly great and timeless and everything you need!
- Sandles // Just one pair of flip flops is great for when you’re at camp! You’re so sick of the hiking boots and those feet need to breathe
- Swim Suit // If you know that the Hot Springs aren’t an option on your hike then it’s no big deal, but of course bring one if you want to do the springs!
Hiking Gear to Pack for the Salkantay Trek
- Thermal Sleeping Bag (Optional) // you can rent one for about $25, or bring your own! I opted to rent one, but this is the link to the one I do own
- Thin Backpack // Just something lightweight to keep your water and snacks with you on the hike! You’ll have a duffel to hold your spare clothes and goods, but this is something light and easy for when your bag is on the mule.
- Biodegradable Toilet Paper // I got this little pack from Amazon and used ALL of it. Almost no establishments in Peru have toilet paper, so it’s using your own or suck it up. Personally, I find toilet paper to be a non-negotiable so I brought my own.
- Reusable Water Bottle OR Hydration Pack (Optional) // I packed both with me! I had my hydration pack in my backpack for the hiking, and then also kept the useable bottle to fill up and potable water tablets to turn my yuck water into drinkable water. HOWEVER, you have plenty of opportunities to buy water bottles there so no stress with needing this!
- Pee Cup (For Women) // Listen. I do not squat. I cannot squat. I brought a pee cup and I have no regrets.
- Small Towel // You don’t need this unless you plan to hit the springs, but I have a cheap foldable towel I love and always take on trips! It takes almost no space at all, and it’s just so nice to have on hand.
- Cash // In general, you’ll find few places take credit cards in Peru so I would ALWAYS have more cash than you think you need. We brought 400 soles each on the hike and used almost all of it.
- Snacks // Think of little hiking snacks for your trip and pack those! Granola bars, KIND bars, beef jerky, even a cookie if you know it’s going to bring you joy. You get your three meals a day and the snacks are so nice during the hikes!
Medical / Bathroom Gear to Pack for the Salkantay Trek
- Sunscreen // Literally if you ignore everything else on this list, do not ignore this. Nobody wants skin cancer.
- Bug Spray // Again, seriously pack this. The mosquitos are no joke in Peru and you will get bitten.
- Advil // We literally brought an entire bottle for four people and we used every single pill. Between the altitude headaches, the sore body parts, and the exhaustion it was truly needed.
- Hand Warmers // It’s not needed but with the snow we had during day one I used the four that I packed in my bag!
- Hairbrush // I’m the only girl in the group that brought a hairbrush and everyone borrowed it daily. It was so nice to feel somewhat clean and detangled!